Written April 10, 2014
This film on surfers of the 60's is probably the most ICONIC motion picture ever made. True to the times, characters, sets, wardrobe, locations, waves and almost perfect doubles in bigger waves. This story is about me and my friends of some 54 years ago when we started surfing in 1960. The characters that are used are personifications of all of my close buddies. We have been friends for the whole 54 years from 13 years old to 68 years old now and counting. We surfed, partied, fought, surfed, drank, raced cars, skateboarded, chased girls, rite of passage going to TJ to see Juicy Lucy and her lover donkey. Bar fights, stabbings, but never gun fire (creative license). 1965, draft notices, off to the induction center take our tests. I did crawl out on the 9th floor fire escape, caught by MP's and put in front of shrink like Busey's character (Leroy). It pretty much was a clusterfuck like Leroy's interview. I split went to Santa Monica Army Recruiter and enlisted for Airborne Rangers.